A memorable day in Isfahan

A memorable day in Isfahan

On our first day in Isfahan we went to explore the city on our own without our hosts. Our first stop was Hasht Behesht Palace. We didn’t go inside as the palace seemed to be the least interesting from the three palaces in the city. We just walked around the park before we headed to the main square. And things started happening.

First an old man came to me and gave me something wrapped in a newspaper. I didn’t want to accept it but then I gave in. When I opened the package I was surprised to find a bunch of grapes inside. Walking further we stumbled upon people playing chess on tables right in the middle of the park. We were watching two men playing a quick game and then one of the men introduced us to another man sitting alone on a bench reading newspaper.

Watching locals engaged in a game of chess
Watching locals engaged in a game of chess

We struck up a conversation and it turned out that he used to be a sailor who visited a lot of countries in Europe and also Thailand, Indonesia and China. He was ethnic Armenian, I think in his seventies and spoke excellent English. The newspaper he was reading was in English. He invited us to drink tea with him right there in the park. He told us a lot from the history. It was a very interesting encounter. He also told us about singers who sing every evening under one of the historical bridges. When we were saying goodbye with the words maybe we will see you by the bridge we had no idea we would bump into him again later.

The man on the very left was the Armenian we talked and drank tea with
The man on the very left was the Armenian we talked and drank tea with

Afterwards we did some sightseeing and went to Naqsh-e Jahan Square, a beautiful square, the second largest historical square in the world. We also visited Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and Chehel Sotoun Palace. We tried another Iranian dish called Fesenjān which is chicken stew flavored with pomegranate syrup and ground walnuts. It was the first and the last dish I didn’t really like.

Murals in Chehel Sotoun Palace
Murals in Chehel Sotoun Palace
Naqsh-e Jahan Square and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Naqsh-e Jahan Square and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Inside Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Inside Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Fesenjān
Fesenjān

Then we walked along the dry riverbed and visited the historical bridges of Isfahan until we came to Pol-e Khaju (a bridge) where we joined the audience who was listening to a few amateur singers performing just for fun and pleasure of the people around. I loved their performance a lot. (Click the following link to watch a video I recorded. You won’t see much but it’s worth listening to. https://youtu.be/_xyE4Ym0PU0)

Si-o-seh pol (Allāhverdi Khan Bridge)
Si-o-seh pol (Allāhverdi Khan Bridge)
Amateur singers perfoming under the Khaju Bridge - the two men on the very right and left
Amateur singers performing under the Khaju Bridge – the two men on the very right and left

A few minutes later a couple of people started talking to us and one man showed us some interesting things on the bridge for example shining eyes of the two lions on each bank of the river. Walking away from the bridge and looking for a teahouse we ran into the Armenian man from the park. He was on his way to listen to the performance under the bridge.

When we were looking into a map trying to figure out where to go and find a teahouse another man approached us to offer help. After hearing we wanted to drink some tea he took us to his friend’s cafe just few meters away and invited us for tea. He was an Iranian living in Chicago and earning his living as a used car dealer. He emigrated in 1978 and came to Iran every 5-6 years for about two months. We had a very interesting chat with him and his friend who couldn’t speak any English but was a really kind man. He opened the cafe for his son. He himself was a retired general.

Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Shah Mosque
Shah Mosque
Vank Cathedral (The Holy Savior Cathedral)
Vank Cathedral (The Holy Savior Cathedral)

It might not sound interesting in writing but it was a great day full of lucky encounters with amazing people who are everywhere in Iran. I like such days!

(Photos in the post are from all days we spent in Isfahan.)

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